![]() ![]() MAKE CAMERA DISPLAY RELIABLE but that's a lot of work. Here's a link: GUILLERMO LUIJK > TUTORIALS > UNIWB. The trick is setting your X-T2 to unity WB. You can also switch back and forth between unity WB and auto and get an idea of that variance. You can use RawDigger to verify how close you are between the sensor exposure and the viewfinder feedback. You're JPEGs will all come out green (see landscape RAF in my last post). You can make the blinkies/histograms more faithful to your sensor exposure by setting the camera WB to unity. if you photograph a motorcycle in the sun the chrome will contain specular highlights you want those to clip. The blinkies will come on way early if the scene contains specular highlights (reflections from shiny objects). You're blinkies/histogram question: First it's important to be sure you're discriminating between specular and diffuse highlights. But yes, it's risky it really hurts when you screw-up and go too far and it makes the PP job certainly more difficult for someone who isn't very capable with the PP software. Best way to stay in practice is to practice so I just eventually drifted into shooting for a full sensor exposure. So I like to be in practice and know I have everything tested to be able to do it. in those few cases where you have extreme lighting contrast and want all the tonal data you can get. I teach my students to work the same way - do as I say not as I do! What if you have a client standing over your shoulder? Are you going to try and explain why there's a difference between a sensor exposure versus a JPEG exposure? Modern sensors are so good that in general the difference just isn't worth the effort and risk.Įxcept. If I took a job to take photos for $$$ I'd immediately adjust my practice to conform with mainstream expectations and shoot appropriate exposures that look good default opened in LR. I'm retired (I teach some college classes part-time), I no longer do any work for hire, I just shoot for myself. ![]()
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